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Actives for makeup that cares for the skin

Makeup no longer just covers: it also cares. Some 44% of colour cosmetics consumers look for products with skin care benefits, and in that context choosing the right actives for makeup is what separates a correct formula from a differential one. Here are the trends ahead and which active fits each type of product.

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Actives for makeup that cares for the skin

Contents

    How makeup is evolving
    Primers: preparing skin before colour
    Actives by product type

How makeup is evolving

Makeup is moving towards a smarter, more adaptable category, where the immediate result is combined with long-term care benefits. Formulas for 2027 and 2028 will have to meet a double expectation: visibly improving the skin while allowing a more personal, adjustable and creative form of expression.

Adaptive makeup: from long-wear to dynamic wear

The idea of wear time is shifting from static long-wear towards dynamic wear: formulas that help maintain comfort, balance and finish quality under changing external conditions. The category is already moving towards products built to reinforce skin resilience against multiple environmental factors.

Emotional makeup: colour as a ritual

Makeup is no longer only about changing how you look, but about turning application into a sensory wellbeing ritual. Refreshing, melting, elastic or comforting textures help generate pleasure, calm or energy during use. Mintel anticipates colour cosmetics that are more stimulating and tied to emotional regulation.

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Primers: preparing skin before colour

Actives are selected according to the functionality sought in the finished product, and their solubility determines the phase in which they are incorporated. From face to lips and lashes, each category has its own optimal balance of colour, comfort and skin care.

Texture, finish and wear time

There are many primer formats, from gel to emulsion or spray, and each answers a different need: some deliver a matte finish while others add radiance. COBIOGUM, a water-dispersible natural gelling agent with a film-forming effect, provides lasting hydration and hold and suits every skin type.

Actives to prepare the skin

AQSTEM ATACAMA hydrates the skin by promoting aquaporin synthesis, DUNALINA adds radiance with a glow effect and CHIAPROTECT SKIN, an omega-rich botanical oil, repairs the skin barrier and soothes. PORE REDUCTYL NT, a natural astringent, reduces pores and leaves a mattifying effect before colour is applied.

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Actives by product type

The purpose of a primer is to prepare the skin and create a smooth, even surface so makeup adheres better and lasts longer. In a context where 67% of users aged 18 to 34 say they pay attention to ingredients, the choice of active matters as much as the choice of format.

Foundations and concealers

In foundations, CYANAGE is a postbiotic that acts on the hallmarks of aging and improves firmness and elasticity, while STEMCEM QUILLAY reinforces the barrier by promoting filaggrin synthesis. For the eye contour, COBIOLIFT delivers an immediate tightening effect and COBIOPHYTONIC GL reduces dark circles.

Mascaras and balms

In mascaras, BIO CAPIGEN VEG V2 stimulates growth with its 13-in-1 nutritional complex and BIO CERAMIDYL HAIR protects the fibre with a glycoceramide hydrogel. For lip balms and sticks, DRAGON'S BLOOD LP regenerates and hydrates, and OMEGA BUTTER restores the hydrolipidic barrier.

Definition

Choosing the right actives for makeup makes it possible to formulate products that cover and care at the same time, the double expectation that will shape the next wave of launches. Contact our technical team to request samples or to receive the formulator's guide, with actives sorted by category and three prototype formulas.

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